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| Dudh Koshi River - Ama Dablam in view. |
Mazamas Travel to the Khumbu Region to Provide Support to Sherpas Affected by the Everest Tragedy
Marina Wynton Sat down for an interview after the Critical Incident Stress Management trip to Nepal to share her story.
Note: The CISM team decided to regard all “debriefings” in Nepal with the same ethics as any other. All meetings are strictly confidential and no notes are taken. This report mentions several names, but not details of each case.
How did this trip come together?
Last spring Conrad Anker and Lee Davis were talking by phone about the tragic deaths of 16 Sherpa guides in the April avalanche on Mt. Everest. Conrad talked about how the families of those who died were affected: grieving from the loss of husbands, future husbands, fathers, uncles, brothers, cousins, friends. Lee mentioned that when traumatic events occur in outdoor activities Mazama members can work with the Critical Incident Stress Management team to sort through the incident and trauma that may have occurred. Conrad wondered if the Mazamas could send someone to Nepal to offer emotional support to the families.
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| An elderly Sherpa woman in Lukla. |
What was the purpose/goal of this trip?
The purpose of the trip was to provide emotional support to families of the deceased. We were very aware that Nepalese people experience and manage grief and the loss of a loved one in a very different way than we do. In preparation we met with many local (Portland) Sherpa people several times who were invaluable in working with us to help us understand the Sherpa culture, what issues people were facing and the state of mountaineering in Nepal from the Sherpa perspective. We went to Nepal with the intent to provide an opportunity for people to tell us their stories, and to listen well and offer support in ways that would work for them. Bob Peirce, a former trekking guide in Nepal, was also very helpful to us and supportive of our efforts.
Who was a part of the CISM Team?
Mazama CISM team members were Katie Foehl, Drew Prochniak (licensed psychologist) and Marina Wynton. Mike Pajunas, invited by Jenni Anker to work on the Khumbu Climbing Center under construction in Phortse, also accompanied the team. Jiban Ghimire, owner of Shangri-La Nepal
developed our itinerary in Nepal and was an essential component in the success of the trip and helping us through logistics. We traveled with two Nepali guides, Karki and Kami, and two porters, Depok and Lhakpha. Our guides really made the trip happen for us, taking care of all kinds of logistics, medical problems, arranging lodging, locating families, and translating. Chhongba Sherpa, a good friend of Jenni’s, acted as a translator and also helped to spread the word in the Khumbu region of our arrival and nature of our visit. Dave Morton, Alpine Ascents guide and Juniper Fund founder, also helped with preparing the families for our visits.
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| Phortse - Khumbu Climbing Center in construction. |
When did this trip take place?
We arrived in Katmandu on Oct. 25 and spent a few days there before flying on to Lukla to begin trekking on Oct 27. Mike and I returned to Katmandu on Nov. 13 and were back in Portland on Nov. 18.
What route did you take?
From Katmandu we flew to Lukla, and from there we began trekking. Our route was: Lukla to Phakding to Namche Bazar to Thamo to Thame to Thamo to Khumjung to Phortse to Dingboche (Tengboche Monestary) to Pangboche to Namche Bazar to Phadking to Lukla to Katmandu.
Our first meeting was in Katmandu with several family members. Chhongba Sherpa translated. We started the trek in the Khumbu from Lukla, arriving in Phakding the first day and Namche Bazar the second day. There Drew and I met with four women whose husbands died on Everest. Sherap Jangbu Sherpa, owner of the Panorama Lodge translated. The day after Mike departed for Phortse while Katie, Drew and I went in the opposite direction to Thamo. In Thamo we met with Ang Riku the wife of the cook who died on Everest. Ang Riku runs a teahouse in Thamo and gave us a delicious meal of Sherpa stew and lemon tea. Our next stop that day was Thame.
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| Namche Bazar, Drew & guide Karki. |
Two women traveled some miles to meet us in Thame to share their stories. We also visited the school in Thame and left crayons and toothbrushes with the teachers, and children’s books in the Magic Yeti Library.
Up to this point Katie had been struggling with a cold and in Thame become so ill that we made the decision to send her back to Katmandu. Drew and I went on with one guide and one porter back through Thamo.
When we arrived in Thamo, Ang Riku was holding a puja ceremony in her tea house to honor her husband. Llamas perform the all day ceremony chanting, praying, meditating, drumming and blowing horns. After lunch there, we traveled on to Khumjung, the location of an airport, hospital and a private high school.
So far the weather in the Khumbu had been brilliant—sunshine, very clear and cold—with gorgeous mountain, river and valley views, and beautiful sunsets. As we descended into Khumjung the weather changed quickly to very foggy and cold.
We left early the next morning for Phortse. Phortse is a very, small remote farming village with especially beautiful views of Cho Oyu, and Khumbi Yul Lha Mts. The Khumbu Climbing School is held here every year with the support of two lodges adjacent to the building site. The lodges have donated the land for the climbing school in construction. Drew left the next day to return to Katmandu and then travel to Iceland. Mike had a few more days of work on the building to complete, so I busied myself with walks around the village to the monestary, the school library, and through the yak grazing fields; doing laundry, catching up on reading and writing.
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| Suspension bridge. |
The group was now down to Mike and I and our guide, Karki and porter, Depok. Our next destination was to attend the Mani Rimdu festival at Tengboche Monastary.
We spent two nights in Dingboche, a small village along a river a short walk away from the monastary. We then moved on to Pangboche where Karki, acting as translator, and I, met with two women on the back porch of our teahouse. Ama Dablam base camp is a three-hour walk from Pangboche, so we saw many trekkers coming and going. The view of Ama Dablam from Pangboche is spectacular, especially in the evening alpenglow.
From Pangboche we started our return trek with stops in Namche Bazar, Phadking, Lukla and back to Katmandu.
What was the reality of the trip vs. the intended purpose?
By the time we arrived to visit with most people, Dave Morton from The Juniper Fund had already visited. (See the Juniper Fund website for a detailed description of their work). The Juniper Fund provides monetary support to each family that will continue for the next four years. So when we arrived the families had received the first payment. We were able to work off that saying that we were friends of Dave’s and want to see how you are doing. Everyone was very thankful to have an opportunity to talk with us. And so grateful that we had traveled so far to support them. The intention was to see how we could help people and then try to do that.
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| Mike & Lhakpa Dorji, Phortse. |
What did you take away from this experience?
It’s hard to adequately describe what we took away from this experience. A few thoughts:
- The Sherpa are a strong and beautiful people.
- Tourism is quickly eroding the culture and the environment.
- As a result of the exposure to western culture, people are giving up on an ancient way of life.
- Mountaineering in Nepal is devastating the male population and contributing to the erosion of the culture.
- The Nepali government is in extreme disarray and is not advocating for the Nepali people.
On the flip side of the equation: ethical tourism, ethical mountaineering could shine a light on the issues and that this create positive changes.
I think the more eyes on all these problems means more exposure of the problems and can contribute to positive changes.
One of the best ways we can support the Sherpa people in the Khumbu is to support their communities, schools, monasteries and medical facilities.
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| Mongla, 13,500 ft. Marina & Drew |
Do you feel the Mazamas met the intended purpose of the trip?
Very much. We were able to provide direct support to the all the people we intended and more. Sherpa deaths will continue. We have begun an important effort that we hope to continue and evolve as we get to know them better.
One important thing to note is that many people and organizations came together to make this effort, this trip, happen. We all share a common goal to improve life for the Nepali people in the Khumbu. I’m hopeful that we will continue to work together.
Overall, do you feel as though this trip was valuable? To whom?
From my perspective everyone involved has benefited. We are so fortunate to be in a position to offer aide to the Sherpa. I would love to hear how each person involved would answer that question.
Personally, I am so honored that I was able to sit with people and hear their stories; it was very moving. What a simple and humane thing it is to sit and listen and be present for another person. This cuts across all cultural divisions. I arrived home with a deep sense of gratitude for my life, my family and friends and my freedom. And ready to get busy with figuring out what’s next.
Thank you!
The CISM Committee and the Mazamas would like to thank the many wonderful sponsors and donors that help make this trip possible. Thanks go to:
- Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation
- Lhakpa Gelu Foundation
- CAMP
- Cassin
- Mountain Hardwear
- Base Camp Brewing Company
- Columbia Sportswear
- The Mountain Shop
- Mazama Members
- Petzl
- Sterling Rope
- Karma Cafe & Coffee Shop
