FOREST SERVICE PREPARES TO ALLOW LOGGING AROUND FRENCHES DOME

Photo Courtesy Judson Hall

Local Forest Service watchdog group BARK reports that the USFS is preparing a timber sale in the ZigZag Ranger District. According to BARK, "The Horseshoe Sale" comprises 2000 acres of timber nestled between the Bull Run Watershed Protective Area and the Mount Hood Wilderness.

In addition to Frenches Dome, the sale could profoundly impact a number of popular hiking trails and campgrounds.

• Trails: Top Spur Trail, Ramona Falls Trail, Burnt Lake Trail, Cast Creek Trail, Horseshoe Creek Trail, Sandy River Trail, Upper Horseshoe Trail, Lolo Pass Trail, and Pacific Crest Trail.
• Campgrounds: Lost Creek Campground, McNeil Campground, and Riley Horseshoe Campground  

BARK views this sale as a worrying departure from the logging moratorium enjoyed in the ZigZag Ranger District since 1998.

COMING SOON: A RE-INVENTED TRICAM FROM C.A.M.P.

A narrowed base provides passive "stopper" functionality from two angles instead of just one, and stiffened webbing makes reachy placements easier.


Source: CleverOutdoorGear

NORTH FACE OF LES DROITES: WINTER ASCENT

Marion Poitevin and Philippe Batoux on the spectacular, thousand-meter Davaille route near Chamonix.

KICKSTARTER PROJECT: RESTORATION OF 1968 ROCK CLIMBING CLASSIC: "EL CAPITAN"

BLM CONSIDERS ENDING A RED ROCK BOLTING BAN

La Madre Mountain

In 2000, the placement of new bolts was banned in the La Madre Mountain and Rainbow Mountain sectors of Red Rock Canyon, effectively chilling the development of new routes within an area comprising 48,000 acres of the park.

Now the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, which is overseen by BLM, is considering a change in the rules to open La Madre and Rainbow Mountains to bolting.

The BLM is currently soliciting comment on the matter, and is holding a series of public workshops for climbers to express their opinions.  The comment period ends on November 18.  Officials say the new rules could be in place in early 2014.

REAL-TIME WEBCAMS: ANOTHER WAY TO CHECK CURRENT CONDITIONS

The USFS and NPS provide a number of webcams that show current conditions in your favorite places.

Columbia Gorge - looking southwest from Wishram

Mount Hood Wilderness - looking south to Mt. Jefferson

North Cascades - looking northwest from the Newhalem Visitor Center

Mt. Rainier - looking west from Paradise

Olympic NP - looking east to Mt. Baldy from Lake Crescent

GOOGLE TREKKER HAULS STREET VIEW INTO THE BACKCOUNTRY -- OutsideOnline.com

Over the past five years, Google has taken its Street View maps to 43 countries, deploying cars, trikes, snowmobiles, and even a submersible to map 360-degree panoramas of the world around us. In June, the company announced a new initiative to bring the same seamless experience into the backcountry in a bid to create the world’s most amazing trail maps.  Read More.

HOW TO SHARPEN CRAMPONS

How to Sharpen Crampons from Climbing on Vimeo.

TOMOKO OGAWA: FIRST WOMAN TO BOULDER V14

With her completion of Catharsis on October 20 in Shiobara, the 34 year old Japanese climber is the first woman to finish a confirmed V14.  Catharsis includes about 15 moves across a virtually horizontal roof.

 

SUMMIT SEALANTS WINTER CLIMBING GRANT

Summit Sealants Inc., is proud to offer the 3rd annual “Winter Adventure Grant” to encourage winter exploration of the mountain ranges of North America. This year we have teamed up with ColdFear.com to award more money than ever!!! We will award $3,000.00 total in $1,000.00 grants. Applications accepted through Dec 31,2012. Award will be mailed by Jan 7,2012 and must be used within 12 months.  Read More!

BOOK REVIEW: BOULDERING: MOVEMENT, TACTICS, AND PROBLEM SOLVING - By Peter Beal

[From the May 2012 Mazama Bulletin]
Reviewer: Bill Larson

I’m sure that the first thought through the heads of many Mazamas might go a little something like this: “What in the world does bouldering have to do with my epic adventures in real mountains?” Well, after reading this book it has become clear that the movement skills and some of the techniques involved with bouldering have a great deal to do with better mountaineering. To quote a line from the book “small hills lead to big mountains.”

CLIMBING WITH ANOTHER CLUB

[From the June 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Rick Craycraft

Although I was taught everything I know about mountaineering by the Mazamas and am fiercely devoted to the incomparable Pacific Northwest, my climbing curiosity has taken me all over the country. Starting with Mt. Hood in 1987, I wandered around the United States over the course of 20 years picking up state highpoints, finishing in 2007 with Mt. Arvon in Michigan (a whopping 1979 feet) for my 49th highpoint. Denali will have to wait for another lifetime. Every few years I dabble again in the Colorado 14ers (all the peaks in Colorado over 14,000 feet). After a blitz last September with my climbing partner Dan Hafley, I’m up to 19 of those. And, in the last few years, I’ve become enamored with the Desert 98 Peaks, in the American Southwest (so designated by the Sierra Club branch in Los Angeles—see the article in March’s Bulletin).

MY FAVORITE PIECE OF GEAR

[From the February 2012 Mazama Bulletin]
By Barry Maletzky

Just as in the opening scene of “Seven Years in Tibet,” I stumble out of a rugged gully on the north side of the pass where Ed, my climbing partner, has lain sick these past two days. It can’t be the altitude because, at 17,000 feet, we were well below our Himalayan climbing objectives of the past seven days. Still, I was frantic to find some help. Our initial plan was to descend from a different pass directly to a small village where we would find vehicles waiting; this was now secondary to summoning help for Ed.

ALL BUSINESS ON FUJI-SAN

[From the February 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Keith K. Daellenbach

Mount Fuji, about 60 miles west-southwest of Tokyo,is one of the world’s most beautiful mountains. Its distinctive, symmetrical stratovolcanic cone rises above nearby Suruga Bay on the western edge of the Pacific Ocean. The mountain is an important cultural symbol of Japan and is the object of national veneration and spiritual significance, having formed a basis for many legends, ukiyo-e woodblock prints, and haiku poetry.

I wanted to climb Mount Fuji since my first business trip to Japan 5 years ago, but the season and logistics foiled me. The Japanese culture and aesthetic fascinates me and I wanted to experience this remarkable country in a deeper way. On my third business trip to Japan in October 2011, I finally cracked the logistics code and climbed the tallest mountain in Japan. At 12,388 ft, Fujisan, as the mountain is known to Japanese, is slightly higher than Mt. Adams.

GLACIERS SHRINK AND GROW

Mazama Glacier - Caleb Sattgast Photo

[From the February 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Walter Keutel

Between 1904 and 2006, the twelve glaciers on Mt. Adams have shrunk to just about half their size. This observation was reported in a 2010 Portland State University study about glacier changes on Mt. Adams. The study also showed that the glaciers on Mt. Adams retreat at a faster pace than the glaciers on Mt. Hood (32% loss) and Mt. Rainier (24% loss). This study was recently referenced in an article in the Oregonian.(1)

MY MISADVENTURE ON THE WONDERLAND TRAIL

[From the January 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Annie Lamberto

This story starts somewhere in history. Somewhere in my history. Somewhere when I lost brain cells dedicated to self-preservation, logic, and common sense. But, I won’t begin the story there…especially since I cannot figure out that time and place.

For the current story…I suppose it starts on a glorious 4-day trip into the Enchantments. I had never been there before and enjoyed every second of the trip. We hiked, headed to the top of Little Annapurna, saw the obligatory mountain goats, and basked in the amazing scenery. On the last day, while hiking out, I began to experience pain in my lower left leg. I cannot explain much more than that. By the time I returned home, later that day, my lower leg was swollen. My shin had a large, red knot and it was painful to walk.

ON COUGARS AND WOLVES

[From the March 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Barbara Weiss

The Mazamas have recently taken positions on current issues facing both the cougar and wolf populations in Oregon.

In 1994 Oregon voters approved a cougar-hunting ban. Since then many rural residents have argued that the large cats pose a threat to humans and pets as well as to livestock. Voters refused to reverse the ban in 1996, but state figures showed a sharp increase in the number of cougars.

FROM THE PROUD MAZAMA PAST: SIX BLIND STUDENTS CLIMB MT. HOOD

[From the June 2012 Mazama Bulletin]
by Ed Johann

On Sunday, May 13, 1973, six blind teenagers equipped themselves with ropes and crampons to scale the tallest mountain in Oregon. These brave, adventurous young people attended the Washington State School for the Blind in Vancouver, Washington. The six students included 12-year-olds Viola Cruz and Theresa Clay, 14-year-olds Dan Davidson and Bernie Buhl, and 18-year-olds Les Robbins and Dean Atkinson.

It was with some hesitation that I agreed to lead these enthusiastic youngsters up to the summit of Oregon’s highest mountain. I’ve had years of experience as a mountain guide in the United States and abroad, but never have I had the responsibility of a group like this one. I had visited the students at their school several times to talk to them and let them handle some of the mountaineering equipment.

SUMMER DREAMING - A few goals for next year!

[From the April 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

Ingalls Peak, various routes (7662 ft) Ingalls Peak, or perhaps Ingalls Peaks because there are three separate peaks, is located directly west of Mt. Stuart and is accessed through Cle Elum and I-90. It is possible to climb Ingalls car-to-car in a long day, but why do that when an overnight near beautiful Lake Ingalls is possible (mountain goats up close included)? Most climbers head straight to the classic South Ridge route of the 7662 ft. North Peak where very good rock and moderate 5.6 climbing awaits eager AR graduates. Not quite as popular is the East Ridge route, also on the North Peak, which is low 5th class except for a short section of 5.7 near the summit. From Ingalls’ summit there is a jaw-dropping view of the West Ridge route of Mt. Stuart, which will make a climber dream of even bigger adventures.

TRAINING FOR CLIMBING SEASON

[From the May 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Natalie Wessel, CSCS

Spring is upon us, and that means summer climbing season is on its way! As many of the 2012 BCEP students are learning first-hand, conditioning hikes are a key way to get fit to climb. But what other training routines are Mazamas following to get in shape? I interviewed a number of active members and here is what I learned.