AVALANCHE BEACON RECALL

Ortovox is recalling its new 3+ avalanche transceiver because in recent testing, some of the devices from a group shipped to vendors after October 17, 2012 "switched to transmission mode unintentionally after 120 seconds in search mode." If you own an Ortovox 3+, follow this link to check your device's serial number. Recalled devices will be inspected and given any needed upgrades.

GIGAPIXEL IMAGE OF KHUMBU GLACIER

Khumbu Glacier -  Pumori 2012

If you have a few minutes to kill and a computer with good RAM, have a look at this amazing image.  Can you zoom in and find the climbers?  What about Everest Base Camp?

If you'd like to get a feel for how much the Khumbu Glacier has receded in the modern era, check out this link.

CARABINER RECALL: WILD COUNTRY HELIUM

Wild Country is voluntarily recalling units of the popular Helium carabiner purchased after July 15, 2012, having discovered a problem with the gate on some units.  You can read details about the recall here.

SILVIA VIDAL - SOLO AID CLIMBER

A contemplative video about Silvia Vidal, who spent 32 days alone on Serrania Avalancha, a very big wall in Chilean Patagonia.

WINTER CLIMBING!

[From the December 2011 Mazama Bulletin]

Welcome to our winter climb season! Here at the Mazamas, winter climbs run from December 1 to April 30. The good news is that, during the winter, the mountains have fewer climbers and more snow. The bad news is that the weather tends to be much less predictable and avalanche danger much greater. Therefore, the Mazamas conduct winter climbs a little differently from those that take place during the summer.

PORTLAND LOSES ITS CLIMBING FOOTWEAR RESOLER

Getting footwear resoled just got a little harder for local rock climbers and mountaineers.

As part of its recent business transformation, Portland's Mountain Soles has stopped all resoling work, with the exception of resoling Patagonia footwear.

The company is going to continue doing outdoor equipment sewing and repair work, but those jobs will need to be dropped off at a local REI, or mailed to the non-retail space that Mountain Soles will soon be moving to.

Mountaineers are in luck: various shoe repair places around the Portland area can resole mountaineering boots with Vibram soles.  But if you're a rock climber, it looks like you'll be mailing your blown-out rock shoes out of town.

Here are a few places you can send your shoes:

Ramutas Resoles - Helena, MT
Cascade Cobbler - Winthrop, WA
Fly'n Brian's Resole - Las Vegas, NV
ProDeal Resoles - Pueblo, CO

Or, maybe you can do it yourself.

PUNKS IN THE GYM - FIRST FEMALE ASCENT

Check out this video of Mayan Smith- Gobat's first female ascent of Punks in the Gym, at Australia’s Mt. Arapiles.  This route was first established by Wolfgang Güllich in April 1985 and was one of the hardest routes in the world at that time.  It is said to only have been climbed by about 30 male climbers thus far and it was one of the first routes that took sport climbing to the next level.  Smith-Gobat spent more than two years working the route before finally redpointing the line on October 28.  Really fun video to watch!

iNeverSolo: A LITTLE HELP FOR YOUR FRIENDS BACK HOME

File your plan with ineversolo, and if you don't return as expected, the site gets in touch with your emergency contacts, fills them in on the details of your plan, and lets them know that you are late coming back. 

FOREST SERVICE APPROVES A MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK ON MT. HOOD

Finding no evidence of significant impact, the United States Forest Service has given permission to RLK Company to develop a mountain bike park at Mount Hood’s Timberline Lodge and ski resort. This recent decision would allow the park to begin operating by summer 2014. Opposition groups have 45 days to file an appeal, though the process is limited only to those who were engaged in the comment period.

Here's what Timberline Lodge has to say about the project, and here is a complete collection of related documents from the U.S. Forest Service.

DECEMBER HIKES AND SNOWSHOES - PLAN AHEAD!

Dog Mountain in winter

Mazamas get out in winter-- a lot!-- and you can join us.  Our hiking schedule is now updated through New Years:  from now to the end of December we have 37 hikes and snowshoes planned, from simple (Mount Tabor laps) to challenging (14 mile Larch Mountain climb) and everything in between.  Fight the winter doldrums by getting out there!

CHASING ICE

The National Geographic film Chasing Ice is currently showing at the Hollywood Theater until the end of this month.  Chasing Ice is the story of James Balog's mission to provide the world with undeniable evidence of climate change through photographs.   Balog places time-lapse cameras in the most extreme Arctic conditions to capture the world's changing glaciers over many years.  The film not only shows the reality of our changing planet but captures stunningly beautiful shots.  Definitely worth a watch.  For tickets you can visit the Hollywood Theater website.

ON MOUNT HOOD: A BIOGRAPHY OF OREGON'S PERILOUS PEAK

On Mount Hood: A Biography of Oregon’s Perilous Peak tells the story of Oregon’s greatest mountain, a mountain that has shaped the very land of the Northwest. The mountain itself helps create the notorious Oregon rains and deep alpine snows, it draws millions to its textbook beauty every year; it paved the way for snowboarding in the mid 1980s, its forests provide some of the purest drinking water in the world, and its snowy peak captures the attention of the nation almost every time it wreaks fatal havoc upon climbers seeking the summit.

Read More

MAMMUT ISSUES A STERN WARNING ABOUT PERMANENTLY INSTALLED QUICKDRAWS AND CARABINERS

Source: Mammut

Mammut is urgently calling for the immediate discontinuation of use and removal of permanently installed quick draws and carabiners in climbing areas. Irrespective of the manufacturer of such equipment, repeated wear can result in the formation of sharp edges capable of damaging or completely severing ropes, even in relatively small falls. Investigations by Mammut have shown that this known problem is actually far more dramatic than previously assumed and represents a very high risk for climbers.

PRE-SEASON NORDIC FEST AT MOUNTAIN SHOP: November 17 and 18

This is your chance to tune up your skis and skills for the upcoming Nordic season.

The Mountain Shop is sponsoring a weekend of free clinics with local Nordic experts, ski testing and evaluation of your old skis, tours of our new ski repair, tuning and waxing laboratory, High Performance Demo and Rental Services department.

We will have on hand information on local clubs, destinations and resources that support of local Nordic Way of Life. Click "Read More" below to get the complete two-day schedule. And don't forget to bring in your old skis for $15 dollars off any Custom Tuning and performance hot box waxing, good only the weekend of the Preseason Nordic Festival. We will have special prices on select Nordic skis, waxes and brushes and tools from Swix and Toko, as well as much as 50% percent off on our demo skis.

COMING SOON (WITH YOUR HELP): THE OREGON DESERT TRAIL

Inventorying trail in the Pueblo Mountains.
Photo: Jeremy Fox

With 4000 members and supporters behind it, the Oregon Natural Desert Association (ONDA) is mapping a 750 mile hike linking a series of remote, high desert areas between Bend and Idaho.  Beginning at Hart Mountain in the Oregon Badlands Wilderness and ending just short of the Idaho border at Lake Owyhee State Park, the trail passes through towns, water sources, and campsites as it guides hikers and horseback riders through ONDA's favorite high desert expanses.  The route relies entirely upon trails and jeep tracks that already exist: no new trails will be built.  Volunteers have spent the last few summers inventorying the route: they're half finished with the project and hope to complete the job in the next two years.

For more information about this project, contact Oregon Natural Desert Association, 50 S.W. Bond St., Suite 4, Bend; 541-330-2638, onda.org.

Sources: ONDA and OregonLive.

PORTLAND GETS A NEW CLIMBING (AND MORE!) GYM

Planet Granite Sunnyvale

California based Planet Granite  is expected to open a new location in NW Portland.  The Portland location will be their largest gym at 32,000sq.ft. and is expected to open in 2014.  Not only will the gym contain 55ft walls and bouldering, they are also planning to have yoga studios, a fitness area, and a steep training ramp. For more information and to track the progress visit their website.

FOREST SERVICE PREPARES TO ALLOW LOGGING AROUND FRENCHES DOME

Photo Courtesy Judson Hall

Local Forest Service watchdog group BARK reports that the USFS is preparing a timber sale in the ZigZag Ranger District. According to BARK, "The Horseshoe Sale" comprises 2000 acres of timber nestled between the Bull Run Watershed Protective Area and the Mount Hood Wilderness.

In addition to Frenches Dome, the sale could profoundly impact a number of popular hiking trails and campgrounds.

• Trails: Top Spur Trail, Ramona Falls Trail, Burnt Lake Trail, Cast Creek Trail, Horseshoe Creek Trail, Sandy River Trail, Upper Horseshoe Trail, Lolo Pass Trail, and Pacific Crest Trail.
• Campgrounds: Lost Creek Campground, McNeil Campground, and Riley Horseshoe Campground  

BARK views this sale as a worrying departure from the logging moratorium enjoyed in the ZigZag Ranger District since 1998.

COMING SOON: A RE-INVENTED TRICAM FROM C.A.M.P.

A narrowed base provides passive "stopper" functionality from two angles instead of just one, and stiffened webbing makes reachy placements easier.


Source: CleverOutdoorGear

NORTH FACE OF LES DROITES: WINTER ASCENT

Marion Poitevin and Philippe Batoux on the spectacular, thousand-meter Davaille route near Chamonix.

KICKSTARTER PROJECT: RESTORATION OF 1968 ROCK CLIMBING CLASSIC: "EL CAPITAN"

BLM CONSIDERS ENDING A RED ROCK BOLTING BAN

La Madre Mountain

In 2000, the placement of new bolts was banned in the La Madre Mountain and Rainbow Mountain sectors of Red Rock Canyon, effectively chilling the development of new routes within an area comprising 48,000 acres of the park.

Now the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, which is overseen by BLM, is considering a change in the rules to open La Madre and Rainbow Mountains to bolting.

The BLM is currently soliciting comment on the matter, and is holding a series of public workshops for climbers to express their opinions.  The comment period ends on November 18.  Officials say the new rules could be in place in early 2014.

REAL-TIME WEBCAMS: ANOTHER WAY TO CHECK CURRENT CONDITIONS

The USFS and NPS provide a number of webcams that show current conditions in your favorite places.

Columbia Gorge - looking southwest from Wishram

Mount Hood Wilderness - looking south to Mt. Jefferson

North Cascades - looking northwest from the Newhalem Visitor Center

Mt. Rainier - looking west from Paradise

Olympic NP - looking east to Mt. Baldy from Lake Crescent

GOOGLE TREKKER HAULS STREET VIEW INTO THE BACKCOUNTRY -- OutsideOnline.com

Over the past five years, Google has taken its Street View maps to 43 countries, deploying cars, trikes, snowmobiles, and even a submersible to map 360-degree panoramas of the world around us. In June, the company announced a new initiative to bring the same seamless experience into the backcountry in a bid to create the world’s most amazing trail maps.  Read More.

HOW TO SHARPEN CRAMPONS

How to Sharpen Crampons from Climbing on Vimeo.

TOMOKO OGAWA: FIRST WOMAN TO BOULDER V14

With her completion of Catharsis on October 20 in Shiobara, the 34 year old Japanese climber is the first woman to finish a confirmed V14.  Catharsis includes about 15 moves across a virtually horizontal roof.

 

SUMMIT SEALANTS WINTER CLIMBING GRANT

Summit Sealants Inc., is proud to offer the 3rd annual “Winter Adventure Grant” to encourage winter exploration of the mountain ranges of North America. This year we have teamed up with ColdFear.com to award more money than ever!!! We will award $3,000.00 total in $1,000.00 grants. Applications accepted through Dec 31,2012. Award will be mailed by Jan 7,2012 and must be used within 12 months.  Read More!

BOOK REVIEW: BOULDERING: MOVEMENT, TACTICS, AND PROBLEM SOLVING - By Peter Beal

[From the May 2012 Mazama Bulletin]
Reviewer: Bill Larson

I’m sure that the first thought through the heads of many Mazamas might go a little something like this: “What in the world does bouldering have to do with my epic adventures in real mountains?” Well, after reading this book it has become clear that the movement skills and some of the techniques involved with bouldering have a great deal to do with better mountaineering. To quote a line from the book “small hills lead to big mountains.”

CLIMBING WITH ANOTHER CLUB

[From the June 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Rick Craycraft

Although I was taught everything I know about mountaineering by the Mazamas and am fiercely devoted to the incomparable Pacific Northwest, my climbing curiosity has taken me all over the country. Starting with Mt. Hood in 1987, I wandered around the United States over the course of 20 years picking up state highpoints, finishing in 2007 with Mt. Arvon in Michigan (a whopping 1979 feet) for my 49th highpoint. Denali will have to wait for another lifetime. Every few years I dabble again in the Colorado 14ers (all the peaks in Colorado over 14,000 feet). After a blitz last September with my climbing partner Dan Hafley, I’m up to 19 of those. And, in the last few years, I’ve become enamored with the Desert 98 Peaks, in the American Southwest (so designated by the Sierra Club branch in Los Angeles—see the article in March’s Bulletin).

MY FAVORITE PIECE OF GEAR

[From the February 2012 Mazama Bulletin]
By Barry Maletzky

Just as in the opening scene of “Seven Years in Tibet,” I stumble out of a rugged gully on the north side of the pass where Ed, my climbing partner, has lain sick these past two days. It can’t be the altitude because, at 17,000 feet, we were well below our Himalayan climbing objectives of the past seven days. Still, I was frantic to find some help. Our initial plan was to descend from a different pass directly to a small village where we would find vehicles waiting; this was now secondary to summoning help for Ed.

ALL BUSINESS ON FUJI-SAN

[From the February 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Keith K. Daellenbach

Mount Fuji, about 60 miles west-southwest of Tokyo,is one of the world’s most beautiful mountains. Its distinctive, symmetrical stratovolcanic cone rises above nearby Suruga Bay on the western edge of the Pacific Ocean. The mountain is an important cultural symbol of Japan and is the object of national veneration and spiritual significance, having formed a basis for many legends, ukiyo-e woodblock prints, and haiku poetry.

I wanted to climb Mount Fuji since my first business trip to Japan 5 years ago, but the season and logistics foiled me. The Japanese culture and aesthetic fascinates me and I wanted to experience this remarkable country in a deeper way. On my third business trip to Japan in October 2011, I finally cracked the logistics code and climbed the tallest mountain in Japan. At 12,388 ft, Fujisan, as the mountain is known to Japanese, is slightly higher than Mt. Adams.

GLACIERS SHRINK AND GROW

Mazama Glacier - Caleb Sattgast Photo

[From the February 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Walter Keutel

Between 1904 and 2006, the twelve glaciers on Mt. Adams have shrunk to just about half their size. This observation was reported in a 2010 Portland State University study about glacier changes on Mt. Adams. The study also showed that the glaciers on Mt. Adams retreat at a faster pace than the glaciers on Mt. Hood (32% loss) and Mt. Rainier (24% loss). This study was recently referenced in an article in the Oregonian.(1)

MY MISADVENTURE ON THE WONDERLAND TRAIL

[From the January 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Annie Lamberto

This story starts somewhere in history. Somewhere in my history. Somewhere when I lost brain cells dedicated to self-preservation, logic, and common sense. But, I won’t begin the story there…especially since I cannot figure out that time and place.

For the current story…I suppose it starts on a glorious 4-day trip into the Enchantments. I had never been there before and enjoyed every second of the trip. We hiked, headed to the top of Little Annapurna, saw the obligatory mountain goats, and basked in the amazing scenery. On the last day, while hiking out, I began to experience pain in my lower left leg. I cannot explain much more than that. By the time I returned home, later that day, my lower leg was swollen. My shin had a large, red knot and it was painful to walk.

ON COUGARS AND WOLVES

[From the March 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Barbara Weiss

The Mazamas have recently taken positions on current issues facing both the cougar and wolf populations in Oregon.

In 1994 Oregon voters approved a cougar-hunting ban. Since then many rural residents have argued that the large cats pose a threat to humans and pets as well as to livestock. Voters refused to reverse the ban in 1996, but state figures showed a sharp increase in the number of cougars.

FROM THE PROUD MAZAMA PAST: SIX BLIND STUDENTS CLIMB MT. HOOD

[From the June 2012 Mazama Bulletin]
by Ed Johann

On Sunday, May 13, 1973, six blind teenagers equipped themselves with ropes and crampons to scale the tallest mountain in Oregon. These brave, adventurous young people attended the Washington State School for the Blind in Vancouver, Washington. The six students included 12-year-olds Viola Cruz and Theresa Clay, 14-year-olds Dan Davidson and Bernie Buhl, and 18-year-olds Les Robbins and Dean Atkinson.

It was with some hesitation that I agreed to lead these enthusiastic youngsters up to the summit of Oregon’s highest mountain. I’ve had years of experience as a mountain guide in the United States and abroad, but never have I had the responsibility of a group like this one. I had visited the students at their school several times to talk to them and let them handle some of the mountaineering equipment.

SUMMER DREAMING - A few goals for next year!

[From the April 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

Ingalls Peak, various routes (7662 ft) Ingalls Peak, or perhaps Ingalls Peaks because there are three separate peaks, is located directly west of Mt. Stuart and is accessed through Cle Elum and I-90. It is possible to climb Ingalls car-to-car in a long day, but why do that when an overnight near beautiful Lake Ingalls is possible (mountain goats up close included)? Most climbers head straight to the classic South Ridge route of the 7662 ft. North Peak where very good rock and moderate 5.6 climbing awaits eager AR graduates. Not quite as popular is the East Ridge route, also on the North Peak, which is low 5th class except for a short section of 5.7 near the summit. From Ingalls’ summit there is a jaw-dropping view of the West Ridge route of Mt. Stuart, which will make a climber dream of even bigger adventures.

TRAINING FOR CLIMBING SEASON

[From the May 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Natalie Wessel, CSCS

Spring is upon us, and that means summer climbing season is on its way! As many of the 2012 BCEP students are learning first-hand, conditioning hikes are a key way to get fit to climb. But what other training routines are Mazamas following to get in shape? I interviewed a number of active members and here is what I learned.

PRESENTATION BY ANTARCTIC CLIMBER AND GUIDEBOOK AUTHOR DAMIEN GILDEA

7 pm, Friday, June 22, 2012
Damien Gildea literally wrote the book on mountaineering in Antarctica and will be giving a slide show on his expeditions in there over the past decade or more. Damien is the Antarctica correspondent for Climb magazine, the American Alpine Journal and Alpinist magazine. If you’ve ever been curious about climbing in the deep south, well, here’s your chance to find out more!

MT. TABOR STREET RAMBLES

Wednesdays

The Mazamas' only Eastside ramble begins at the Mazama Mountaineering Center 43rd/Stark. Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3.0 mi/hr) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland up to Mt. Tabor Park. We may even catch a glimpse of a heritage tree. Once in the park we will take alternating trails to the top of the park up to the top of the #280 stairs at the NE corner of the park.

From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. Great training for climbing or backpacking this summer (load up your packs as you wish ?). Total mileage 6 miles (not including stairs climbed up/down). Elevation gain approx. 600 ft. Starts promptly at 6 pm. Total time 2 hours. Leader: Meg Linza, (503) 502-8782. $2.00 Fee .

SUNNYSIDE NEIGHBORHOOD TREE INVENTORY

See webpage for dates - Leader Training: June 23, 2012

This summer, the Sunnyside Street Tree Team, in partnership with Portland Parks & Recreation Urban Forestry, will inventory every street tree in our neighborhood. We’ll record important tree data and compile a report with future planting recommendations for our street trees! It's a great opportunity to learn about tree types and more!

BEACON ROCK CLIMBING ASSOCIATION BARBECUE

June 23, 2012

Beacon Rock's future is uncertain: regional climbers can no longer take this rare gem for granted. If you are interested in preserving climbers' access to Beacon Rock, please join the newly-formed Beacon Rock Climbing Association [BRCA] for an organizing event and barbecue next weekend.

2ND ANNUAL BADGER CREEK CHUCKWAGON WEEKEND

Friday, July 27th – Sunday, July 29th, 2012

Come and enjoy a wonderful weekend in the Badger Creek Wilderness!

You will be able to choose whether you want a more scenic pace and shorter distance (A) or more strenuous pace and longer distance (C). We will have up to 3 groups of 12 participants per group. Overall costs are $130 (members) and $160 (non-members), which includes all meals (2 breakfast, 2 lunch, 2 dinner), lodging, fees, and transportation.

VOLUNTEERS OF AMERICA BIKE AND HIKE

Saturday August 4, 2012

Join us for a fun and challenging ride or hike that ends at the top of Larch Mountain, overlooking the Columbia Gorge and Cascade Mountains. It will be an event for both the joy of the ride/hike itself and to raise funds for the Al Forthan Memorial Scholarship.

PHOTOS FROM CATHEDRAL RIDGE

Photos courtesy Dr. Brad Farra

Click here to see more

PHOTOS FROM BCEP 2012

Midnight on Dog Mountain

Click here to see the collection

MTNCLIM 2006

Researching climate change and its effects on our  mountain environment 
By Steve Couche
[originally published in the December 2006 Mazama Bulletin] 

This article is a brief synopsis of a research conference I attended in September at Timberline Lodge called MtnClim 2006 sponsored by the Consortium for Integrated Climate Research in Western Mountains (CIRMOUNT). It was wonderful and thought provoking. There was indeed a lot of science, with talks of modeling and many graphs, trends and charts. Through it all, though, it was easy to see the big picture: the mountain landscape is changing and the culprit is global warming.